Artimes Yeganeh is Iran’s national climbing coach, the only IFSC Junior Routesetter from his country and the chief route setter for the Asian championships, and one of the finest professional climbers the country has produced.
In this piece, we talk to Artimes about the growing standards of climbing in Iran, his career and his journey as one of the most authoritative figures in climbing in Iran.
Zushan Hashmi: What is it that got you interested in climbing?
Artimes Yeganeh: It’s a unique sport. There are many new challenges (mentally, physically& technically) in sport climbing with the various routes. This is definitely, what got me hooked.
What are the biggest differences between traditional climbing and indoor climbing?
It’s really different, indoor climbing, in my opinion, is just training and prepares you to go outdoors.
I think real rock climbing is definitely outdoors and not plastic climbing.
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Has climbing grown in Iran since you started?
Sport climbing began in Iran about 30 years ago and nowadays it’s a very famous sport in Iran.
We have so many climbing gyms and various outdoor climbing zones with several routes and boulders. Also, we now have so many professional climbers and champions.
What are some of the challenges of climbing in Iran? Has this changed much recently?
I think the biggest issue is the lack of sufficient academic knowledge of sports climbing, but nowadays it is looking better.
What do you think are the most important aspects of becoming a good rock climber? (Eg. Discipline, mental technique, physical strengths etc)
I think all these aspects are equally important.
Tell me about your route setting career?
I’m the chief route setter in the Asian Championships and an IFSC junior route setter.
I started route setting about 20 years ago in Iran across various National Championships and cups.
I passed the continental course in 2013 and became the continental route setter in 2015
Then I started route setting in Asian championships, World Cups and World Championships, eventually becoming an IFSC junior route setter in 2018.
What have been some of the highlights of your climbing career? As a climber, route setter and coach?
As a climber, finishing some of my projects in 2019-2020, boulder problems, pushing the limits with an 8B+, Route Vampire 8b+, Route Colony 8b+, Route Gladiator 8c.
As a route setter, my highlight was by far, being the head coach of Iran during the Innsbruck World champions in 2018.
Tell us about some of the most famous traditional routes in Iran?
We have many climbing zones with great routes in Tehran, Alborz, Kermanshah and Hamedan.
As coach of the Iranian team, tell us a bit about some of the up and coming climbers in the country?
We have many young talents but unfortunately, the federation doesn’t believe and trust them.
Which disciplines stand out in Iran (bouldering, lead or speed)?
Speed definitely comes first. Then it’s bouldering and there isn’t a lot of lead. This is probably the most complex and hardest discipline and that’s why.
Tell us a bit more about Reza Alipour and his journey to breaking the world record, as the world’s fastest vertical man?
He is a really great champion and warrior, I’ve never seen a climber like him.
Are there a growing number of female climbers in Iran? Tell us a bit about them?
Yes, nowadays the results of female Iranian climbers at international competitions like the Asian championship and World Cup’s are better than the men’s results.
I think Mahya Darabian is one of the best junior female talents and she has a great future ahead of her.
You can follow Artimes Yeganeh on Instagram
For more climbing content visit Sportageous.
The curation of this article was supported by Saqib Tanveer.
